There's nothing poetic about saying 'goodbye' to family, friends, and colleagues. Chances are if you're reading this, you fall into one of those three categories. Moving back to work in Asia was a difficult decision, and I will miss you all. So through this forum, I hope to share updates that will help bridge the gap between us.

My journey began as most trips to Japan do - with a detour through South America. The goal is two-fold: a hike in Northern Columbia to find Ciudad Perdida ("The Lost City"), followed by the Inca Trail to Macchu Picchu in Peru. But first it was to New York to pick up mi amigo extraordinario Michael Delfs and witness his graduate with a Physics degree from Columbia (the university). Well done. He has spent the past few years expanding his mind in directions that mine won't go, and I have tremendous respect for anyone who can chat quantum mechanics. It's great to have Mike as a travelling companion, ensuring that the journeys will be more interesting than the destinations. After lavish celebrations with wonderful family & friends, we cut the cord and set off for South America...


Bogota, Columbia wears the pungent musk of most developing cities twice its size. Diesel hangs in the air like a curtain, traffic permeates the core from all angles, and life moves fast. Stigmas regarding safety concerns are probably not without some grounding, but there's something else going on in this town. A notable crackdown on corruption in recent years has improved conditions for foreigners and locals alike. Nevertheless, Columbia still remains off the itinerary of most travellers. It's a gem. And the ominous presence of military muscle shouldn't make one anxious, as the guys are really quite friendly - especially when you catch them singing karaoke on the street while on duty .We sat down in old-world Bogota and chatted with the tavern locals over warm beer and broken Spanish. But we also unearthered an ultra-modern nightclub scene which caters to Bogota's affluent class, rivaling anything anyone offers anywhere. Among others, Mike and I enjoyed the panoramic views from the 41st floor of a building which was previously owned by the drug cartel, but is now since abandoned and home to a jam-packed club with explosive energy. There's plenty of sightseeing to do in Bogota, and the people are friendly and helpful to foreigners. If you get the chance to visit Bogota, you should. If you don't get the chance, you should create the chance. The local food is great - just don't eat it. Actually, everything is fantastic...and the coffee is 'delicioso' of course.


With a few cultural stops ticked off our list, we then flew to a small town called Santa Marta. 20 minutes outside of Santa Marta is a fishing village called Taganga. 20 minutes outside of Taganga is a reclusive beach aptly called Playa Grande. 20 minutes outside of Playa Grande is nothing. Just ocean.



We then assembled our guide, transport, and requisite permits to hike Ciudad Perdida. For those still awake, here's a little info on the city. Ciudad Perdida is an ancient city deep in the jungle of Northern Columbia. It dates back as early as 5th Century BC, and belonged to a group called the Tayrona who called the city 'Teyuna.' Teyuna was apparently abandoned during the Spanish conquest, and rediscovered deep in the jungle in 1972. The area is apparently in the geographic center of a war between the Colombian army, right-wing paramilitary groups and left-wing guerilla groups, but tensions are currently low. No incidents have occured since 8 foreign tourists were kidnapped in 2003.












Ciudad Perdida is accessible by a 6-day hike which takes you deep into the heart of the jungle. The trek is an absolute blast, with no shortage of 'Indiana Jones' moments. Compared to both Everest Base Camp and Mt. Kilamanjaro, this trail felt much more challenging to me. It's prodominantely narrow single-track with aggressive ascents, countless switchbacks, and slippery descents. But the heat is what really makes it fun in the sun. Frequent rain and dank humidity create a climate not unlike a pressure cooker when the sun shines. Packs are full because you haul your own gear (except porters w/donkeys who help with food), so finding solid footing is always important. At night, you sleep in hammocks strung out under shelters like cocoons. But the real distinguishing factor about this trip was the mosquitos. When treasure looters rediscovered the city some 30 years ago, they appropriately named it "Green Hell." Our group was a motley crew. A few Brits, an Aussie, a Swiss, a French woman, an Israeli, a Korean, and an Argentinian married to a Dutch who live togteher in Kenya. The cast had cinematic dynamics, begging for some interesting twits in the plot.



The views along the way were so foreign they felt voyeuristic. Endless mountains covered in dense lush greenery. Every inch of the jungle is alive. Flora & fauna I'd never seen before. Armies of ants produce the illusion of moving ground. A symphony of fire flies light up the nights expanse like paparazzi flashes. Altogether, it's simply breathtaking.





Indigenous people (called Kogi) still exist within this harsh environment, and know the land unlike anyone else.
Here we are sharing a drink with one of them. Interestingly, some of the Kogi don't wear shoes, and can scale the rocky trails like veritable hobbits. Their lives are simple, but admirable. They build schools for the children, raise lifestock & till land, and work tirelessly in the heat & rain. Next time you have a tough day at the office, just be glad you're not in their shoes. Well...if they had shoes. Whatever. Yes, next time you have a tough day at the office, just be glad Kogi don't have shoes.


On the way up, we met Juan Valdez. He gave us coffee, then rode off into the distance on his donkey.









After countless ups & downs and 9 consecutive river crossings, you come upon 1200 consecutive steps on a slippery slope. That's about 80 stories tall...the last thing you want after a day trekking in the sweltering heat. But burning thighs aside, once you get atop them all the view is incredible. The ruins of the actual city itself consists of a series of circular terraces, many of which haven't yet been excavated from the dense jungle cover. It's my own theory that instead of tomb raiders who discovered Ciudad Perdida in 1972, it was in fact Nick Faldo who found it and tried to turn it into a world-class golf destination. From the photos, you can clearly see it looks like a solid 200 yards to the pin. But with a light tail wind and a strong 7-iron, you can easily hit the green in one shot.









Tarantula for dinner? No thanks. Here's Nicolai - crazy bastard.

Luxury
lux·u·ry (n)
a) something adding to pleasure or comfort but not absolutely necessary
b) an indulgence in something that provides pleasure, satisfaction, or ease
Those who know me well understand my indulgence is gin & tonic, and Mike is perfectly aligned on this view. There´s no reason why being 6 days into the jungle should preclude us from a little sophistication. Atop the splendor of this ancient city I opened a can of tonic and bottle of gin hauled all the way up-down-and-all-around from Canada. Unfortunately, the only missing ingredient was the quintessential lime. After some discussion with Nicolai, it turned out there was in fact an entire tree of limes not far away. Of course, why not. Freshly picked limes in hand, we toasted to the simple things that make life an indulgence. Then we played chess.


On the last day, there was an optional tour of a cocaine factory. Typical fare for an atypical trek. For those of you considering a career change to become a cocaine factory worker, I assure you the labour is not nearly as glamourous as the classified ads may make it seem. And I wouldn't try the take-home version either. Gasoline, acetone, and potassium permaganate are just some of the fun-to-play-with ingredients. As the trek to Ciudad Perdida becomes more popular, this component of the trip will surely need to be dropped. But for now, it's worth a peak.



After the trek, Mike & I boarded a bus to Cartegena. The city's colonial history has left it with stunning architecture and a photogenic colour palette that can't snap a bad photo. The walled city is the jewel of Spanish colonialism and arguably the most beautiful city in Latin America. Its narrow streets and expansive plazas give it European flavour with a unique twist. Speaking of twists, they also garnish gin & tonics with carrots & cherries...yikes. The Story of a Lime continues.







So that's it from Columbia. Beautiful landscapes, friendly people, fascinating culture, and even a lost city. Whatever you look for in your travels, it's likely here in Columbia. You just might have to look around a little to find it. We're off to Peru...